Plants
Lavender Plant
Lavandula angustifolia · Lippenblütler (Lamiaceae)
True lavender in a pot brings the spirit of Provence to balcony and terrace - silvery-grey foliage, dense flower spikes and that unmistakable, calming scent. As a sturdy, sun-loving container plant it is easy-going and faithful for years. We pick strong, well-rooted plants with firm growth so they take off the moment they go into their pot.
- Light
- Full sun and warmth; at least six hours of direct sun a day for compact growth and abundant flowering.
- Watering
- Water sparingly, only once the top of the soil has dried; drought is tolerated well, waterlogging never.
- Care level
- Easy
- Botanical
- Lavandula angustifolia
Lavandula angustifolia, true or narrow-leaved lavender, is the hardiest and most fragrant lavender species, making it the first choice for German gardens and containers. The trade is dominated by compact, proven cultivars: Hidcote Blue with deep blue-violet, strongly scented spikes and slow, dense growth, and Munstead, an early, free-flowering variety in a lighter blue-violet with faster growth. White forms such as Edelweiss and pink selections such as Rosea round out the colour range.
In floristry and interior styling lavender plays a double role. As a living potted plant it is a fragrant summer highlight for window boxes, planters and sunny outdoor sills. Dried, it holds colour and aroma for months, finding its way into bouquets, wreaths and scented sachets. Cut flower stems last a few days in the vase and are a classic for rustic, naturalistic arrangements.
Quality shows in silvery-green, healthy foliage with no brown or bare patches, in a bushy habit that branches well from the base, and in firm root balls. A plant grown without overfeeding and without excess moisture stays compact, flowers freely and lignifies more slowly. When buying we deliberately look for these strong, un-forced specimens - it pays off in longevity.
Stylistically lavender suits anything with a southern, country-house, Mediterranean lightness. Paired with rosemary, sage, small olive trees or grasses it forms a fragrant container ensemble; with roses, yarrow and ornamental grasses it becomes a playful naturalistic bed. The cool violet and blue tones look especially harmonious against warm terracotta, zinc and untreated wood.
Care
- 01Position: full sun and warmth - the more sun, the more compact the growth and the more intense the scent.
- 02Substrate: free-draining, rather lean and ideally chalky; use a pot with a drainage layer and hole, and avoid waterlogging at all costs.
- 03Watering: sparingly and only once the top layer of soil has dried; water deeply rather than often - lavender copes with drought far better than with wet feet.
- 04Pruning: twice a year using the one-third / two-thirds method - a firm cut in spring, a light trim after the first flush, never cutting back into the old wood.
- 05Feeding: only very moderately; over-fed lavender lignifies quickly, flowers less and becomes more winter-sensitive.
- 06Overwintering: in mild wine-growing regions usually hardy to around minus 15 degrees; move containers to a sheltered spot, wrap them and protect the root ball from freezing through.
Frequently asked
- Is lavender toxic to cats, dogs or children?
- Lavender is considered mildly toxic to cats, dogs and horses - the responsible compounds are the essential oils linalool and linalyl acetate. Nibbling larger amounts can cause nausea, vomiting and loss of appetite. Its intense scent keeps most animals at a distance anyway, so the potted plant is rarely a problem in everyday life. Far more critical is concentrated essential lavender oil: cats can barely metabolise essential oils, so undiluted oil should always be kept out of reach.
- When does lavender flower and for how long?
- True lavender usually flowers from June to August. A light trim right after the first flush encourages a second, weaker flush into September in many varieties. Munstead tends to start a little earlier, while Hidcote stays more compact and especially fragrant.
- Why is my lavender going woody and bare?
- Going woody is normal but can be greatly delayed. The most common causes are missing or late pruning, too much feeding and overly wet soil. Prune consistently twice a year, but never deep into the old wood, keep the substrate lean and free-draining and water sparingly - that keeps the plant bushy and free-flowering for many years.
- Can I overwinter lavender in a pot?
- Yes. True lavender is the hardiest species and survives roughly minus 15 degrees in the garden in mild locations. In a pot the root ball is more exposed and freezes through more easily, so place the container against a sheltered house wall, wrap it in fleece or jute and water only sparingly on frost-free days. Winter waterlogging is more dangerous than the cold.