Plants
Olive Tree
Olea europaea · Oleaceae (Ölbaumgewächse)
The olive tree brings Mediterranean calm to any terrace: silvery shimmering foliage, a gnarled trunk and a presence that only grows more beautiful over the years. We select strong, well-rooted plants with a compact crown, because a healthy root ball decides whether an olive tree survives many summers here. As a container plant it is easy-going and forgives a forgotten watering can far more readily than too much of one.
- Light
- Full sun. The more direct sun the better; the brightest available spot on a balcony or terrace.
- Watering
- Moderate. Water thoroughly, then let it dry back; drought-tolerant but sensitive to waterlogging.
- Care level
- Easy
- Botanical
- Olea europaea
Olive trees come to market in very different forms: as young bushy stock, as a shaped standard with a round crown, as a solitary specimen with a thick, quaintly twisted trunk, or as a bonsai-like bowl plant. For the terrace, compact standards and strong solitaires are the most popular because they bring instant structure to an arrangement. What matters is less the height than the trunk girth and the density of the crown.
In floristry and garden use the olive tree is a classic anchor for Mediterranean planting concepts. Planted in a pot it becomes the centrepiece of balcony and terrace year after year; cut olive branches also make excellent long-lasting, silvery foliage in bouquets and wreaths. The firm, slightly leathery foliage wilts slowly and suits rustic as well as modern styles.
Quality shows in the roots and the foliage: a good olive tree has a well-rooted but not completely matted ball, densely leafed shoots without bare patches inside, and an evenly silver-green leaf without brown tips. Trunk damage and loose bark are a warning sign. When buying we look for hardened-off stock that has not been moved straight from the heated greenhouse into the first cold spring wind.
Stylistically the olive tree combines effortlessly: with lavender, rosemary, santolina and grasses it creates a fragrant Mediterranean bed, with terracotta and pale natural stone a clearly Mediterranean picture. In plain anthracite containers the same tree looks surprisingly modern and graphic. Its silvery foliage is a calm counterpoint to strong flower colours and gives every ensemble depth.
Care
- 01Position: as sunny as possible, full sun and sheltered from wind. On balcony and terrace the brightest spot; indoors only as a stopgap right at a south-facing window.
- 02Watering: water thoroughly, then let it dry back. Waterlogging is the most common mistake and leads to root rot; keep it slightly too dry rather than too wet.
- 03Substrate and pot: free-draining, mineral container compost with a drainage layer and a drainage hole. Olive trees prefer lean conditions to over-feeding.
- 04Feeding: from April to August roughly every two to three weeks with container-plant or Mediterranean-plant fertiliser, none in winter.
- 05Overwintering: not fully hardy. In a pot, overwinter bright and cool at around 5 to 10 degrees, frost-free; planted-out trees only in mild spots and well protected, as frost below about minus 10 degrees causes damage.
- 06Pruning: a light shaping and thinning cut in spring is enough; the tree holds its form quite well on its own.
Frequently asked
- Is the olive tree toxic to cats and dogs?
- No, Olea europaea is considered non-toxic to cats and dogs and does not appear on veterinary lists of poisonous plants. The olives themselves are not toxic either, though they taste very bitter raw. If animals nibble a lot of foliage it can still irritate the stomach, so moderation makes sense.
- Is the olive tree hardy and can it stay outside?
- Olive trees are only conditionally hardy and tolerate roughly down to minus 10 degrees, depending on variety and site. In Düsseldorf we recommend overwintering the pot bright and frost-free at around 5 to 10 degrees. Planted out, they survive only in very mild, sheltered spots with good winter protection.
- How often should I water an olive tree in a pot?
- Water as needed rather than on a fixed schedule: water thoroughly first, then let the top few centimetres of soil dry before watering again. In high summer this may be needed daily, in winter only every few weeks. Avoid waterlogging at all costs, it is the most common cause of death.
- Why is my olive tree getting yellow or brown leaves?
- Usually too much moisture or waterlogging is behind it, less often a lack of light in winter quarters. Check the drainage hole and let the soil dry back between waterings. Some leaf drop when moving the plant is normal; if the tree pushes fresh silvery growth, all is well.