Plants
Poinsettia
Euphorbia pulcherrima · Euphorbiaceae
The poinsettia is the best-selling houseplant of the Advent season — and at the same time the one where most can go wrong at purchase. What looks like one big red flower is actually coloured bracts; the true flowers are the small yellow-green buttons in the centre. We buy our poinsettias late in the year and only from temperature-controlled stock at the Veiling Rhein-Maas — a single cold transport is enough to make the plant shed its leaves two weeks later.
- Light
- Bright, some winter sun is welcome; dark corners lead to leaf drop.
- Watering
- Sparingly — dunk weekly rather than watering; waterlogging is the most common mistake.
- Care level
- Medium
- Botanical
- Euphorbia pulcherrima
The colour of the bracts comes from short days: only once the plant has had more than twelve hours of darkness a day for several weeks do the top leaves turn red, white, pink or salmon. Alongside the classic red there are cultivar groups such as „Princettia“ in vivid pink, creamy-white and marbled varieties, and mini poinsettias for the windowsill.
The most critical moment is the trip home: the poinsettia is extremely sensitive to cold. Just a few minutes below about 12 degrees Celsius — the walk across a cold car park is enough — leads to leaf drop days later. That is why we always wrap it in paper in the shop, and at home it should never wait next to the balcony door or in a cold car.
It likes its spot bright and evenly warm at 18 to 22 degrees, free of draughts. A windowsill above a radiator is fine as long as the soil does not dry out. Cold windowsills and constantly tilted windows, on the other hand, are the most common reason a healthy poinsettia turns yellow within weeks.
Water sparingly but regularly: the most common care mistake is waterlogging in the cachepot. We recommend dunking the pot briefly in room-temperature water once a week, letting it drain and putting it back. If the leaves go limp, the plant is almost always too wet, not too dry.
As a spurge, the poinsettia carries white latex sap that can irritate sensitive skin. For cats and dogs the plant is mildly toxic — the old stories about deadly poinsettias trace back to wild plants; today's cultivars are considerably milder, but still belong out of reach of pets and small children.
With a little ambition a poinsettia can be carried over the summer and coloured up again the following year: cut back in spring, grow on bright and warm, and from late September give it 12 to 14 hours of strict darkness daily for six weeks, for instance under a cardboard box. It is hands-on work — but the nicest answer to the throwaway mentality around this plant.
Is Poinsettia toxic to children and pets?
- Children
- Mildly irritating
- Cats
- Mildly irritating
- Dogs
- Mildly irritating
The milky sap is mildly toxic to cats, dogs and small children and can irritate skin and mucous membranes. Modern cultivars are far milder than their reputation, but should still be kept out of reach.
Typical symptoms: After chewing: drooling, gagging, vomiting and diarrhoea; skin contact with the latex can cause redness and itching.
In an emergency:call the German poison control centre in Bonn on +49 228 19240 (24/7) — for pets, contact an emergency vet directly. This information does not replace medical or veterinary advice.
Overview: toxic & non-toxic plants for cats, dogs and children
Care
- 01Always have it wrapped for transport — even brief cold below 12 °C causes leaf drop later on.
- 02Place it bright and warm at 18–22 °C, away from draughts and not touching cold window glass.
- 03Water sparingly: dunk the pot briefly once a week, drain well, never leave it standing in water.
- 04Limp leaves usually mean too much water, not too little — check the soil before watering.
- 05Pick out the spent yellow flower buttons to prolong the display of the coloured bracts.
- 06Keep out of reach of cats, dogs and small children; the latex sap can irritate skin and stomach.
Frequently asked
- Is the poinsettia toxic to cats and dogs?
- Yes, mildly. The latex sap can cause drooling, vomiting and diarrhoea in cats and dogs. With today's cultivars it is generally not life-threatening, but the plant should be kept where pets cannot reach it. If symptoms are pronounced, call the vet to be safe.
- Why is my poinsettia losing its leaves?
- The three classics are cold during transport, draughts at its spot and waterlogging. Cold shock is especially sneaky: it often shows only one to two weeks after purchase, when nobody remembers the chilly trip home. Always transport the plant wrapped and give it a warm, draught-free spot.
- How often should I water a poinsettia?
- Much less often than most people think: as a rule it is enough to dunk the pot briefly in room-temperature water once a week and let it drain well. The soil surface should dry off in between. If the root ball sits permanently wet, the roots rot and the leaves drop.
- Can I get my poinsettia to colour up again next year?
- Yes, with discipline: cut back to about a third in spring, grow on bright and warm, in summer happily outdoors in semi-shade. From late September it then needs 12 to 14 hours of complete darkness daily for about six weeks, for instance under a cardboard box — only then will the bracts colour up again.
- How do I recognise a fresh poinsettia when buying?
- By the true flowers: the small yellow-green buttons at the centre of the bracts should still be closed or only just opening. If they have dropped or shed pollen, the plant is already old. Also look for dense, rich-green foliage right down the stem — and never buy stock that has stood outside in the cold.